Mark Conner regularly visits the Alps from his home in the U.K. every early and late season. This year he repeated the pattern, climbing with Mark in June, and Kathy in September.

Unfortunately the high pressure and warm temperatures that had been the pattern through August and early September broke just before Mark arrived. We had hopes of doing some 4000 meter peaks, but that plan was skuttled by a big snowfall and a continued unsettled forecast. Our new plan turned to shorter, steeper and more technical projects. Here Mark returns from a day of ice climbing practice on the Mer de Glace. But we actually met up in Zermatt...

Our first day actually dawned very clear and beautiful. Heavy snows up high kept us at moderate elevation, but for our plan to climb a couple of routes on the South Face of the Riffelhorn, conditions were fine. Just a little damp... Here we enjoy the classic view of the Matterhorn in a reflective tarn.

After avoiding dampness on the first pitch, we had great, dry and warm rock on "Eck" and "Kante", with views of Monte Rosa as a bonus.

A very mixed forecast for the following day led us to choose a route on the Jegihorn, above Saas Grund. The 14-pitch "Alpendurst" seemed like a good objective. Mouse over to see a red line showing the general line of this route. Very consistent at its grade, it's long enough to settle into a rhythm and really have a feeling of getting away from it all for the day. Scroll over the photo with your mouse to see the approximate line of the route.

Despite threatening clouds and mists, our day was mostly quite sunny and warm. We pause mid-way for a bit to eat. New snow covers the Lagginhorn behind.

Fun moves on blocky, sound rock high above the valley, near the top.

And, waddaya know! Great minds think alike, it seems. We meet Mark, Jim and Doug on the summit. They had done another route on the peak, and waited for us to share the glory before we all started down.

The weather was meant to get wetter, and in any case we thought we'd mix things up a bit and try a steep ice climb next. Heading to Chamonix, we spent a day climbing on the Mer de Glace. We found a place to play in an area that once flowed with water into a big moulin. Now quiet, it still sports some big, steep walls.

Mark concentrates on his placement near the top.

Lookin' good from here...

Another climber sets up his rappel as the mists start to gather again.

On our last day we climbed the Chèré Couloir on the North Face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The weather closed in as we started up the first pitch. Mark belays in the shelter of a small platform off to the side as I start up pitch two. Someone left a fixed rope dangling down the first couple of pitches, for reasons obscure to me... Sorry, too hard to photoshop this out!

One benefit of the inclement weather was that only one party was above us on the climb. We hurried a bit to keep up with them to minimize the force and momentum of the inevitable falling ice (there was very little, thanks to new snow, and their care and skill). Between this and the weather, I'm afraid I didn't get any climbing shots. Here we begin our descent from the top of the climbing. We begin the rappels in the gathering squalls.

The long, tough climb back up the ridge to the Aiguille du Midi téléphérique station, in and out through the fog.

Freezing fog has made feathers out of the icycles at the entrance to the station. Time for a nice hot cup of coffee.