| 
High
on the North Ridge of Mount Conness.
Photo
Info © Mark Houston 1997
|
Alpine
Climbing in the
Eastern
Sierra
|
|
|
| For
the time being we are not offering any trips in the Inyo National
Forest (most of the places in the Eastern Sierra Nevada we might
want to go, including the Lee Vining ice climbing areas). This is
largely due to the fact that we are in either the Alps, or the Himalaya
until well into November 2006, but also partly due to a problem
with the US Forest Service in the Inyo National Forest.
In the past we have run our Sierra work through permits held by
our friends at the Sierra Mountain Center, working as SMC employees.
However, recent issues with another local guide service have made
SMC a bit worried about our advertising of Sierra trips as Cosley
& Houston Alpine Guides trips. Also the Forest Service is trying
to sort out the thorny question of what is an employee and what
is a subcontractor, and where we fit in.
Until both issues are resolved we may be prohibited from offering
trips in the Sierra. Currently, there is for all intents and purposes
a moratorium on new permits (as there has been for years), and also
USFS requirements and bureaucracy associated with maintaining permits
is so costly and time consuming as to render the option of obtaining
our own permits both impossible and, well, impossible.
We
encourage you to write/call/email/visit the offices of the Inyo
National Forest, and urge them to sort out the confusion in such
a way that allows us to guide on Forest Service land, as well as
to advertise possible trips as we do. Working as SMC employees was
one acceptable solution for us, and it is our hope that this avenue
of access will again work for us in the future.
But
for now, no trips for us on the Inyo National Forest.
The
Eastern Sierra has a tremendous variety of climbing for all levels
of expertise. It is perhaps most famous for high quality alpine
rock routes and peak ascents at all different levels of difficulty.
But it also hosts great ice and snow climbing, on the frozen waterfalls
of June Lake and Lee Vining Canyon in winter, and in the many steep
snow and ice couloirs of the high peaks in late summer and fall.
We
provide guiding and instruction at all levels. We can put together
a custom program for you or for your group, designed to fit your
abilities, interests and aspirations.
Guiding
rates are on a per climber per day basis.
Shorter,
front-country days
-
1
climber with 1 guide: $295
-
2
climbers with 1 guide: $190
-
3
climbers with 1 guide: $150
Regular,
full days
-
1
climber with 1 guide: $380
-
2
climbers with 1 guide: $250
-
3
climbers with 1 guide: $180
|
The
following climbs are a sampling of the best that the Sierra Nevada
have to offer. There are many, many more.
| 
|
Mt.
Whitney - 14,494'
- East
Face - Grade III, 5.6 - 2 to 3 days
- East
Buttress - Grade III, 5.8 - 2 to 3 days
|
The
steep, sheer eastern wall of Mt. Whitney is an obvious attraction
when seen from the Owens valley, and hosts surprisingly moderate
climbing on impeccable granite. The East Face and the East Buttress
routes follow beautiful lines up the clean, solid rock of this
wall. Normally these classic routes can be climbed any time
from May through October. The photo left shows the steep and
clean east faces of neighboring Keeler, Day and Third Needle
|
| Mount
Russell - 14,086'
- Fishhook
Arête - Grade III, 5.9 - 2 or 3 days
|
The
Fishhook Arête on Mount Russell is one of the finest of
the harder alpine rock routes in the Sierra. 9 pitches on clean
granite, up to 5.9 in difficulty, lead to the airy summit. Best
July through September. |
| Mt.
Conness - 12,590'
- North
Ridge - Grade III, 5.6 - 1 day
|
The
sculpted, sweeping North Ridge of Mt. Conness is a beautiful
line up to the summit, overlooking Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite
National Park. Moderate rock climbing in a fantastic setting
make this a great day trip, or a grand finale to a weekend beginning
with ice climbing on neighboring North Peak. Best late May to
October. |
| 
|
North
Peak - 12,242'
- North
Couloirs - Grade II, 50° ice - 1 day
|
The
50 to 60° frozen couloirs of North Peak's north face, are
an excellent introduction to the classic gully climbing in the
Sierra. A climb of North Peak can be combined with an ascent
of the adjoining North Ridge of Mt. Conness, for a rewarding
weekend's outing. Like all Sierra gully climbs, the couloirs
of North Peak are in their best condition in the Fall. Mike
Christianson can be seen here belaying Kathy on the last pitch
of the couloir. |
| Bear
Creek Spire - 13,713'
- North
Arête - Grade III, 5.8 - 2 days
- Northeast
Ridge - Grade III, 5.4 - 2 days
- East
Ridge - Grade IV, 5.8 - 2 days
|
This
impressive summit offer a number of excellent alpine routes.
The North Arête and the East Ridge are challenging rock
climbs (both 5.8) while the more moderate North East Ridge is
a long and airy 4th and low 5th class ascent. The best season
is June through September. |
| Lone
Pine Peak - 12,944'
- North
Ridge - Grade IV, 5.7 - 1 or 2 days
|
|
The
North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is a feast of airy climbing and
scrambling up a long, challenging and extremely scenic ridge
line. This 5.6 route can be done in one very long day, or with
a bivouac in the middle of the route, surrounded by starlight
and deep shadows. Good May through October. |
| Mount
Mendel - 13,691'
- Mendel
Couloir - Grade 4-5 ice to 60° - 2 or 3 days
|
The
Mendel Couloir is perhaps the most well known of the Sierra
gully ice climbs, offering sustained steep climbing in a remote
setting.. This is the classic right hand route of the twin couloirs
that split the north face of Mount Mendel. Following a good
snow year the couloir is best climbed in the Fall. In lean years
your best bet is to climb earlier in the year. |
| Mt.
Sill - 14,162'
- Swiss
Arête - Grade III, 5.6 - 2 or 3 days
|
The
East, or Swiss Arête of Mt. Sill is a classic alpine route
on a beautiful peak. The climb involves rock climbing of a difficulty
up to 5.6, steep frozen snow and a moderate glacier approach.
The best season is May through October. |
| North
Palisade - 14,242'
- U-Notch
Couloir and East Ridge - Grade IV, 5.6, 50° ice - 2 or
3 days
|
This
long ice couloir in the dramatic wilderness cirque of the Palisades,
is excellent example of the kind of all-media ascents and terrain
that the Sierra has to offer. After climbing about 8 pitches
of snow and ice in the couloir easy 5th class rock leads to
the summit. This climb comes into excellent condition in the
Fall. |
| Polemonium
Peak - 14,000+'
- V-Notch
Couloir - Grade III, 60° ice - 2 or 3 days
|
The
twin couloir to the nearby U-Notch. The V-Notch Couloir is steeper
and narrower and less frequented. As will most Sierra ice gullies,
Fall is the best season for an ascent. |
| Temple
Crag
- Venutian
Blind Arête - Grade III, 5.7 - 2 or 3 days
- Moon
Goddess Arête - Grade IV, 5.7 - 2 or 3 days
- Sunribbon
Arête - Grade VI, 5.9 - 2 or 3 days
|
Temple
Crag is host to several long, challenging and beautiful rock
routes. The Venutian Blind and Sunribbon Arêtes exemplify
the quality of these serious and aesthetic wilderness rock climbs.
Temple Crag is located beneath the alpine walls on the north
side of the Palisades. Ascents of the Temple are often combined
on the same trip with a climb of Mount Sill or North Palisade.
|
| Clyde
Minaret - 12,281'
- Southeast
Face - Grade IV, 5.9+ - 3 days
|
This
route follows an intricate line up a steep face, beautiful reddish
gold rock on square cut holds. The climbing is varied, strenuous
and intriguing, always with great exposure. The Southeast Face
of Clyde Minaret is one of the most impressive alpine rock faces
of the Sierra. |
| 
|
Cardinal
Pinnacle
- Regular
Route - Grade II, 5.6 - 1 day
- Red
Bush - Grade II, 5.9 - 1 day
- Cucumbers
- Grade II, 5.10a - 1 day
|
Several
lines, from 5.6 to 5.11, on the sheer granite north face of
this small peak, make it a fun and challenging one day objective.
The best season is mid-March to late October. In this photo
Chris Kulp enjoys the 5-pitch Regular Route.
|
| Crystal
Crag - 10,375'
- South
Ridge - Grade II, 5.4 - 1 day
- North
Ridge - Grade III, 5.8 - 1 day
|
A
great one day objective, Crystal Crag offers an alpine climb
with a short approach. The South Ridge is a perfect introduction
to alpine rock climbing while the North Ridge offers more sustained
and difficult climbing. May through October are the recommended
months. |
 |
Kathy
Cosley & Mark Houston
UIAGM Internationally Licensed Mountain Guides
AMGA Certified • SNGM members |
|
All images, layout and text ©1998 Cosley &
Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved
|
