Grant Carnie in the Alps • August 25-30, 2015

Once again, Grant joined Mark for a bout of climbing in the Alps. We enjoyed 6 days of nearly flawless weather, then last hoorah of summer, it seems. The previous week however, brought new snow to the high peaks, and we needed to choose our objectives with that in mind.

We began with a "smaller" peak, the Salbitschijen in central Switzerland. The local guidebook claims that the South Ridge is "the best granite ridge climb in the Alps". Only one way to find out...

Other Trips with Grant

Alps - August 2014
Alps - August 2013
Alps - September 2012
Alps - August 2011
Alps - August 2009
Alps - August 2007

Return to all recent trips

 

Grant on the morning of our Salbitschijen climb.

 

The Salbitschijen from near the Salbit hut. The South Ridge is the left-hand skyline.

 

The approach scramble to the South Ridge.

 

Working along the ridge.

 

Looking down a typical pitch on the route.

 

An Italian climber moves up the crux pitch of the climb. The crack above him contains a few 6a moves (5.10a) but is well protected with bolts and fixed pitons.

 

Near the summit of the Salbitschijen.

 

On the hike back to the Salbit hut. After our climb, we hiked a long way down to the car, drove to Hospental, and enjoyed a great welcome, dinner and shower in the Hotel Burg.

Mouse over the image to see the route and descent.

 

After a leisurely start the next morning, we drove to Grindelwald, hopped on the train to the Jungfraujoch, and then walked down the glacier to the Konkordia hut. This photo is from Konkordiaplatz, looking back up-glacier to the Jungfraujoch.

We arrived just in time for dinner.

 

The sting in the tail of the approach to the Konkordia hut.

 

Our first climbing objective was the Grosses Grünhorn (on the left), seen here from Konkordiaplatz. The normal route climbs from the hut, over the Grünegghorn, then continues up the long South Ridge to the summit.

Mouse over the see the route.

 

Early in the morning we crampon up on the Grüneggfirn.

 

Sunrise on the Aletschhorn

 

Looking ESE from near the Grünegghorn.

 

A brief check for phone service from near the summit of the Grünegghorn. No luck.

 

Finally, on the summit of the Grosses Grünhorn

 

Starting down the ridge on the Grünhorn.

 

In the saddle of the Grünegghorn - Grünhorn.

 

Finally, after a long walk, we arrive at the Finsteraarhorn hut. A big day.

 

The next days climb was the Finsteraarhorn. Mouse over to see, more or less, the line.

 

Looking up the NW Ridge from the Hugisattel. About 200 more meters to climb.

 

Grant on the summit of the Finsteraarhorn.

 

Descending the ridge. The Schreckhorn behind.

 

We spent another night in the Konkordia hut. And the following day, rose early to hike out to Grimsel. Here is another view of the Finsteraarhorn, from the SE as we approach the Oberaarjoch.

 

From the Oberaarjoch, we descend the Oberaar Glacier. Another party, just starting down from the joch.

 

Finally, the glacier gives way to the lower valley. We continue our walk past the Oberaarsee to the dam, and car park, at the far end.

 

And finally, after some 6 hours of walking, we arrive at the end of our big traverse. A few minutes later, we are in a taxi heading to Meiringen, then train back to our car in Grindelwald, and finally a long drive back to Chamonix.


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