Dick Dietz on the Matterhorn, Weissmies and Dri Horlini • August 15 - 21, 2012

It has been a long time since we last climbed with Dick, 1995 in Peru, 2000 in Bolivia and then back to Peru in 2002. This year, Dick made a quick visit to the Alps with the hope of climbing the Matterhorn, in addition to a few other summits.

Other trips with Dick

Peru, June 2002

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We started with a leisurely hike up to the Almageller hut, our base for two nights

 

"Wildlife" on the trail to the hut. The Portjenhorn is the rocky peak on the left.

 

The Almageller hut. On our day 2 we made and enjoyable traverse of the Dri Horlini. The "three horns" is a small peak of lovely rock with a fine and exposed ridge line traverse. In this view it forms the backdrop to the hut. We traversed in a left to right direction.

 

Climbing on the Dri Horlini.

 

On the sharp ridge of the Horlini.

 

The final moves to the summit.

 

On our third day, we traversed the Weissmies, a massive 4000 meter peak above the Saas valley. At sunrise we had a find view of the Portjengrat.

 

Looking into Italy from the Weissmies.

 

Easy, blocky climbing on the Weissmies South Ridge.

 

Dick on the Weissmies.

 

The final part of the route traverses a beautiful snow arête.

 

On the summit.

 

We descended the "normal" route on the peak's north side.

 

And then, on to the Matterhorn.

 

A pleasant hike leads up to the Hornli hut and the start of the climb. In the background are, from left to right, Monte Rosa, the Liskamm and the Breithorn.

 

After a 4 am breakfast, we head out the door at 4:25.

 

Some hours later, we arrive at the Saint Bernard stature, only a few steps away from the summit.

 

Dick on the summit of the Matterhorn.

 

Descending the blocky ground below the "Shoulder".

 

And finally, we walk away from the last section and stroll back to the hut.

 

We continued down to the Hotel at Schwarzsee for a good meal, a well-earned shower and a good night's sleep.

 

Our hotel at Schwarzsee. The Rimpfischhorn and Strahlhorn in the background.

 

The Schwarzsee, or black lake, after which the area is named.

 

A last look up at the Matterhorn, just before sunset.