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| Mönch, Southeast Ridge |  |
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The Mönch is the most climbed of the peaks of the Berner Trilogy, which includes the Eiger and the Jungfrau. Easy access from the Jungfraujoch rail station, the convenient and close by Mönchsjochhütte, its spectacular setting in the heart of the Berner Oberland, and a variety of good routes all contribute to its popularity. The Southeast Ridge is considered the normal route and is a great introduction to climbing in the area. This route, while never severe, includes some very exposed ridge climbing both on snow and on the fine gneissic rock which makes up the core of the Oberland. This route from the south offers fourth class rock scrambling along a stepped arête to the spectacular summit snow ridge. The climb is easy of access because of the Jungfrau cog railway, and the route can be done in one day from Grindelwald by taking the first train. Because of its relatively short length, ease of access and southern exposure, it can be done in less than ideal conditions by experienced climbers, and comes quickly back into shape after snow storms or bad weather. From the Jungfraujoch rail station, an easy walk brings us to the foot of the ridge. Initially we climb on easy rock. As the rock steepens above it improves in quality. About halfway up the ridge we find the first snow ridge. Above we climb alternately on rock and snow, finally arriving at the east end of a long traverse along the exposed summit ridge, which takes us to the top. |
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| Descending the exposed final summit ridge. | |
Difficulty Even though the Southeast ridge of the Mönch is considered a relatively easy route, it often surprises climbers with its considerable exposure, especially on the narrow snow aretes and the final, long snow and ice ridge to the summit. On this terrain good footwork and a steady head are needed. There are a few rock sections too, but holds are big, and other than the ever-present exposure, the climbing is not too difficult. This is a great route for skilled beginners who want to enjoy a big mountain route, or for experienced climbers who want to acquaint themselves to the area. Prerequisites Climbers need to have experience in crampons, a good head for heights and be steady on their feet with good balance. Combinations There are a number of other summits in the area that combine well with the Mönch. The most obvious is the Jungfrau, and we frequently do the two summits in a two-day outing, with the Mönch on the first day, an overnight in the comfortable Mönchsjoch hut, and then the Jungfrau on the second day. The Walcherhorn and the Gross Fiescherhorn are also good climbs that can be readily done from the Mönchsjoch hut. |
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| The Mönchsjoch hut. | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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