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| Mönch, Southwest Ridge |  |
| Difficulty Schedule Maximum
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The normal route on the Mönch, the Southeast Ridge, is a justifiably popular climb, varied, exposed, not too difficult and very easy of access. For those of us looking for something a touch harder, we have been rewarded with the Southwest Ridge. Were it not for the normal Southeast Ridge, the Southwest would be far, far more crowded. It is a classic climb, with all the positive attributes of the normal route, but with two important differences, it gets almost no traffic and it is a notch up in difficulty. The Southwest Ridge rises directly above the Jungfraujoch, so the approach could not be easier. It climbs mixed terrain initially to the base of the crux slab pitches, a section of steep slabby ridge crest with small holds. After this the difficulty eases and we climb alternately rock and snow (depending on degree of snow cover). The route finishes on a snow face to the summit. Descent is by the normal, Southeast Ridge. This route is best done when there is sufficient snow cover to allow access to the ridge by a quick gully on the east side. This route is a good choice for those planning on also climbing the Eiger. It is good training and is more suited to the ability levels of Eiger aspirants. |
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| Sunrise on the Mönch | |
Difficulty The Southwest Ridge is a bit harder than the Jungfrau, with slightly harder technical climbing on the crux pitches. But the route is also shorter, and has a shorter approach. This makes it possible to do in a day from the valley. The crux pitch is about 5.6 or so in difficulty, and is climbed in mountaineering boots. Prerequisites This is a route for experienced climbers, who are fit, can handle exposure well and are comfortable on easy 5th class rock in mountain boots. Combinations There are a number of other summits in the area that combine well with the Mönch. The most obvious is the Jungfrau, and we frequently do the two summits in a two-day outing, with the Mönch on the first day, an overnight in the comfortable Mönchsjoch hut, and then the Jungfrau on the second day. The Eiger can also be combined with the Mönch in either a 3-day program that includes the Eiger's South Ridge, or a 3- or 4-day program with the Eiger's Mittellegi Ridge. |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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