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| Mönch, Nollen Route |  |
| Difficulty Schedule Maximum
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While most climbers come to know the Mönch via its relatively straightforward SE Ridge, those few that venture onto much steeper and longer routes on the northwest side of the peak learn of a very different mountain. This side of the peak is cold and dark, and has a big north-face feel to it. The small Guggi hut, from which most climbs on this side of the mountain are based, is perched high on a remote ridge, far from the tourists of Kleine Scheidegg and the Jungfraujoch. The Nollen Route is the easiest route on this, the steep side of the peak. The difficulties are mainly on ice, but some rock or mixed climbing is also required. The routes main crux feature,the Nollen ice nose is a bulge where the ridge crest merges into a hanging glacier. The difficulty of the ice nose of the Nollen varies from year to year, but normally includes several belayed pitches up to at least 60 degrees in steepness, and occasionally has short vertical steps. Its first ascent in 1866 was accomplished with the aid of ladders! Once past the Nollen the angle eases a bit, but soon steepens again as we climb the final long ice and mixed slope to the summit ridge. The Nollen Route on the Northwest Spur is a two day climb, with a 1500+ foot approach to the Guggi Hut. The day of the climb also includes an elevation gain of over 4200 feet. The descent is down the Southeast Ridge and then easily back to Kleine Scheidegg via the Jungfraujoch railway. |
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| The northwest side of the Mönch | |
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Difficulty The main difficulties of the Nollen route are the difficult ice climbing of the Nollen ice nose and the overall length of the climb. With modern tools and techniques, the ice climbing is not considered hard, but the length of the route has not diminished over the years. The large mount of vertical on summit day, over 4200 feet, much of it technical, and the relentless steepness of the upper slope require very good fitness and an ability to move well on 40 to 50 degree ice, pitch after pitch after pitch. Prerequisites Very strong
ice climbing skills and a high level of fitness and ability to move quickly
all day long. Combinations After the climb of the Mönch you may elect to stay at the Monchsjoch hut from which the South Ridge of the Eiger can be readily climbed. Also, the Jungfrau can be climbed from this hut. |
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| Climbing on the Mönch | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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