Wild Vicuña on Chimborazo

Ecuador

Ecuador is a friendly, accessible and beautiful country. The mountains of Ecuador are exciting: high,heavily glaciated, with a range of technical difficulty to challenge the beginner and experienced climber alike. Ecuador is easy to get to, and easy to travel in. For this reason, even high altitude objectives can be done in a two to three week trip.

The summits of Ecuador offer an excellent introduction to high altitude mountaineering. The accessibility of the peaks, in combination with the interesting climbing, the friendly culture, and the lovely landscapes offer a multifaceted and varied climbing and travel vacation.

The best season for climbing in Ecuador is November through February, and it is in this time period that we offer climbing programs there.

Our Ecuador programs are offered on a custom basis. We prefer to travel and climb in small groups of friends or acquaintances rather that large and unwieldy groups. This allows us to be less conspicuous, more flexible, safer on our climbs, and is more in keeping with the quiet nature of the picturesque countryside. Rather than offer fixed departure dates we try to accommodate your particular scheduling needs, and interests. If you or your group of friends / relatives are looking for a special climbing program, please contact us.

On this page we describe two suggested itineraries, one as an introduction to climbing in Ecuador and includes the highest and most prominent summits, and a second which includes more technically oriented summits and less visited peaks. Last, we include information on all of the peaks to help you design your own itinerary should you desire.

Antisana from Cotopaxi

Ecuador High Altitude Ascents

• Suggested 15-day program of climbing and travel. Summit climbs include Cayambe 18,991', Cotopaxi 19,342' and Chimborazo 20,697'.

Ecuador, the Hard Way

• This suggested itinerary is 14 days long and includes more the more technically challenging climbs of Illiniza Norte and Sur 17,263' as well as the beautiful and rarely visited El Altar 17,446'.

Designing Your Own Trip

• Information on most of the important summits of Ecuador. This section helps you to create your own custom itinerary, including a combination of climbs, travel and sightseeing that best suits your goals.

Ecuador High Altitude Ascents

Day 0

Arrive in Quito. Transfer to hotel.

Day 1

Because Quito is at about 9000 feet above sea level, it is a good place to begin our acclimatization. Normally on this first day of the trip we explore the city, walking through both the older colonial part of the town as well as the more modern quarter.

Day 2

Rising early we travel by van to Otavalo to enjoy the Saturday market of this picturesque native town. The Otavalo Indians have held on strongly to their heritage and culture, easily seen by the traditional clothing and handicrafts. The market in Otavalo is a a great opportunity to buy gifts (for yourself as well as loved ones).

After the morning at the market we often hike over a small ridge to the Lake San Pablo just to the southeast. Here we have lunch before returning to Quito for the night. Another option is to spend the night on the lake in pleasant cabins.

Day 3

Still basing ourselves out of Quito we make a day climb of nearby Guagua Pichincha, a 15,724 foot high volcano just above Quito. The climb with a rough and occasionally muddy drive up to a high grassy ridge overlooking town. From here we follow a ridge line, culminating with about 150 feet of 3rd and 4th class rock scrambling to the distinct summit.

In recent years Pichincha has become more volcanically active and we may need to alter our plans to accommodate mother nature.

Day 4

On day 4 we travel to Cayambe to the north of Quito. Like all of Ecuador's highest summit, Cayambe is a large glaciated volcano. Standing well about the surrounding green countryside the 18,991 foot high summit offer intricate glacier climbing and is a great place to being our mountaineering.

Normally we can drive all the way to the rustic hut at about 15.000.

Day 5

Day 5 is a training day. On the section of glacier near the hut we review ice climbing skills and the rope management techniques we will need on our ascent. We also take some time on crevasse rescue skills.

This day of training is integral to the acclimatization process. For most of us there is a noticeable jump from the relative lower elevations of Quito the the high and thin air of 15000.

Day 6

Ascent of Cayambe. Rising very early we make our summit bid. The route begins with easy hiking and rock scrambling (by headlamp) then gains the glacier. After initial low angles slopes, the route turn toward the highest point and steepens. Often there is a large crevasse seemingly barring further progress. Normally this is overcome with a short bit of steeper climbing, leading to the rounded dome of the highest point.

After our descent we rest that afternoon, relaxing in the hut.

Like Cayambe, the ascent of Cotopaxi begins with easy hiking but soon leads to the glacier. The most memorable part of the ascent is that part of the route spent rounding the large rock wall high on the peak called Yanasacha. This part of the climb is a moderately steep snow slope which quickly gives way to the summit. One on the top we get a good view of the immense summit crater just to the south, with Chimborazo floating on the horizon in the distance.

We return to La Cienega for the evening.

On our 9th day we drive around to the west side of Chimborazo and on to the lower hut. Unlike our previous to summits Chimborazo lies in the Western Cordillera, further from the wet jungles of the east. Here the high Paramo is drier and has a more open and expansive feel. We often see herds of wild vicuña.

There are tow huts on this, the west, side of Chimborazo. We can drive to the lower hut, but the upper, from which we make our summit climb, is reached on foot. Fortunately it is only about 400 feet higher and by this time our acclimatization is helping to make the hike an easy walk.

The climb of Chimborazo starts very early in the morning. It is a long climb and the normal pattern of afternoon cloud buildup dictates a start in the dark. Wake-up is normally about 1 am and we are underway as soon as possible after that. There is some steeper climbing on Chimborazo and occasionally we have to belay short ice pitches. In the upper section the angle eases, but the high altitude becomes more and more demanding.

There are two main summits to Chimborazo and unfortunately nature has played a cruel trick on climbers. The first summit we arrive at is the Veintimilla, some 140 feet lower and half a mile away from the higher Whymper summit at 20,697 feet. If we have the energy, time and weather conditions, we make the hike across the summit plateau to the highest point.

After our climb we normally continue our drive down to the low elevation town of Baños at the leading edge of the jungle.

Our 12th day is spent relaxing in the wonderful warm and fragrant air of Baños. Baños is an Ecuadorian vacation town lying at about 5900 feet. Even though it is quite popular with both Ecuadorians and foreigners, it is largely unspoiled There are hot spring, numerous waterfalls to visit, and other sights. But the main reason we enjoy the town so much is the warm and, oh so thick, air. Coming from the challenging high altitude environment of Chimborazo, the contrast is striking.

AS will Pichincha, recent volcanic activity on nearby Tungurahua, has forced occasional evacuation of Baños, and we will need to reconsider our schedule if conditions dictate.

3 climbers with 1 guide

$3500 per person

1 climber with 1 guide

$7000 per person

Program Cost Inclusions

• UIAGM / IFMGA and AMGA certified guides, Kathy Cosley and/or Mark Houston
• Nine nights lodging, on a shared basis in hotels
• Lodging in huts
• Ground transport within Ecuador
• Group climbing gear and group camping gear
• Food while in the mountains
• Park entrance fees

Program Cost Exclusions

• Airfare to and from Quito
• Food while in town or while traveling by motor vehicle
• Personal Equipment
• Airport tax
• Insurance
• Items of a personal nature

Booking info

Peak

Maximum Ratio

Days for the ascent

Cayambe, 18,991 feet

3:1

2 days

Cotopaxi, 19,342 feet

3:1

2 days

Chimborazo, 20,697 feet

2:1

3 days

Antisana, 18,709 feet

3:1

5 days

El Altar, 17,446 feet

2:1

6 days

Iliniza Norte, 16,813 feet

2:1

2 days

Iliniza Sur, 17,263 feet

2:1

2 days

Imbabura Peak, 15,118 feet

3:1

1 day

Rucu Pichincha, 15,177 feet

Guagua Pichincha, 15,724 feet

4:1

1 day

1:1 climber to guide ratio

$400 per person per day

3:1 climber to guide ratio

$200 per person per day

Normally we conduct private programs on a "cost plus" basis. You or your group pay for expenses incurred during the program, either with a deposit in advance or as the trip progresses.

In addition to these expenses we charge a portion of other fixed costs we incur in coming to Ecuador, travel to and from our home in France and minor other expenses. These expenses are shared equally among all our guiding days there during a season, so the exact amount per day varies depending on how much work we are doing in Ecuador that year. Though these fees vary from year to year, they are normally in the range of $50 per day spread among your entire group.

Finally we add a daily guides fee as listed above. These fees are based on the climber to guide ratio and are our rates for most normal objectives.

Booking info