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| Wellenkuppe |  |
| Difficulty Schedule Maximum
Ratio Combine
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Zermatt is almost completely surrounded by mountains. to the east is the Mischabel range, south are the many peaks of the Monte Rosa group stretching from the Breithorn to Monte Rosa itself. The Matterhorn is southwest of town, and the Ober Gabelhorn, Wellenkuppe, Zinal Rothorn, and Weisshorn form an impressive chain to the west. As a group this last is the most impressive with very sharp summits tightly packed close together. They are also the most challenging to climb, not only for their technical difficulty, but also due to the fact that there are no mechanical lifts to help in your approach. They remain pure. The Wellenkuppe
is the easiest of these peaks to the west, though it is still a big climb.
This is a two day climb from Zermatt. The first includes the big hike
to the the Rothorn hut, from which we base ourselves. Normally it takes
about 5 hours for the hike from Zermatt to the hut. The following day
we rise early cross the Trift Glacier and gain the east side of the Wellenkuppe.
Easy rocky slopes steepens to join the east ridge. This, in turn broadens
into a flat face, the final 300 feet of rock. The climbing here is low
class 5, on steep perfect rock, some of the highest quality climbing for
its grade we have seen anywhere. The views from the Wellenkuppe are exceptional. Not only is the North Face of the Matterhorn in full frontal view, but the Ober Gabelhorn and the very sharp Zinal Rothorn are also very close by and very impressive. |
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| Ober Gabelhorn and Wellenkuppe | |
Difficulty There are two main difficulties we encounter on the Wellenkuppe. The first is the altitude and length of climb. While neither is extreme, in combination they require a very good level of fitness. The second challenge is in the rock climbing, both lower on the peak where the technical grade is lower, but the rock less solid, and higher where the difficulty is a bit greater and the rock excellent. Prerequisites Good fitness is essential, especially if you hope to make the descent back to Zermatt the same day you summit. Also, the rock climbing sections require care and comfort with high exposure. Previous cramponing and rock climbing experience is necessary. Combinations The Rothorn hut also serves as a base for climbs of the Trifthorn and the Rothorn itself. |
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| The Rothorn hut | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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