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| Weissmies, Normal Route |  |
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Like the Breithorn, Allalinhorn, and Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Weissmies is one of the big, 4000 meter summits that can usually be ascended without encountering difficult technical climbing. Also, as with these other peaks, it can be reasonably done in one day from a comfortable valley base. On our web site, we describe two routes on the Weissmies, the normal route up the northwest (Trift) glacier, and the South Ridge, which is usually done as a traverse. There are two main advantages of the normal route. one is if you only have one day to climb (the traverse requires an overnight in the Almageller hut) and the other is that the normal route is easier in descent, so if conditions are not good, or energy levels flag, one can always, and easily, turn around. The northwest side of the Weissmies is largely covered by the Trift glacier, and this governs the nature of the climbing route. If done as a day climb, we begin in the town of Saas Grund, just below the resort of Saas Fee. We'll ride the lift to Hohsaas, gaining a quick 5000 vertical feet! After a short section of easy trail we reach the glacier. Initially the angle is low, but soon we encounter the steep middle section of the glacier. Here we'll encounter slopes of up to 50 degrees as we turn crevasses and other icy obstacles. This part of the route varies from year to year. In the exceptionally dry summer of 2003 the route melted out so much that ladders were needed to span some of the larger holes. Pretty exciting! Eventually the angle eases and we arrive on the crest of the west ridge of the peak. This is followed fairly easily to the 13,176 foot high summit. This climb is a bit harder than either the Breithorn or the Allalinhorn (also described on our web site) as the elevation gain is a bit more and the state of the glacier can vary more than on the other peaks. But it has the advantage of being in a minor rain shadow, and often the weather is acceptable, while peaks further west or south are covered in cloud. But it is usually not an especially difficult route and is suitable as an introduction to the area, or as good training and acclimatization in preparation for other climbs. |
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| Climbing on the Weissmies | |
Difficulty The climb of the Weissmies is fairly long with over 3000 feet of elevation gain (not counting the 5000 feet in the lift!). In addition the glacier can present some steeper snow or ice climbing, though these sections are usually fairly short. Prerequisites Climbers need to be fit, with good endurance, and have previous experience in crampons. Combinations There are two peaks just north of the Weissmies that can be done in combination. These are the Lagginhorn, another 4000 meter summit, and the lower Jegihorn. The Lagginhorn normal route, the West Ridge, is a bit steeper than the Weissmies but not much. The classic South Ridge is a very fine climb, but more difficult. The Jegihorn is a rock peak with many different routes of a wide range of difficulties. We also describe the Jegihorn on our web site. Both of these peaks can be done in combination with the Weissmies by staying at either the Hohsaas hut or the Weissmies hut. |
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| The Weissmies and Trift Glacier | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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