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| Weissmies, South Ridge & Traverse |  |
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The Weissmies is a peak we often climb, and usually by this fine traverse. There are a number of reasons we feel this is such a worthwhile route. First, the peak is high. Not only does it present a big climb with expansive views, but also one that offers good training and acclimatization. Second, the quality of climbing is very good. The route is varied, with rock climbing on the ascent of the South Ridge and a big complex glacier for the descent on the other, northwest, side. The route also follows a fine ridge and the snow arête in the upper part is very scenic and enjoyable. The degree of difficulty is just right for intermediate climbers, offering good climbing on exposed but not extreme terrain. The difficulty is such that even if there is a bit of new snow on the rock, it is still climbable, so the route is often in condition. If the weather is OK we can climb. The climb requires a bit of effort. There are no lifts to whisk you up from the valley floor, you must earn your views. However, to save wear and tear on the knees, on the descent we can catch the Hohsaas lift to the valley, thus making what would otherwise be a bruising hike down into a pleasant alpine descent. And last, the Almageller hut, from which we base our climb, is a very fine hut, with great food, friendly staff and a fantastic view. The South Ridge is also good training for the Matterhorn. Though the Matterhorn is considerably harder, the type of climbing is similar and gives a sense of what to expect on the more famous peak. The climb starts from Saas Almagell, down in the valley below Saas Fee. A good trail leads to the hut. This is a fairly long hut hike, climbing over 1200 meters in elevation. From the hut, the trail continues up to Zwischbergenpass, the high pass between the Portunhorn to the south and the Weissmies to the north. Here, we leave the trail, first climbing snow, then gaining the rocky ridge which takes us almost to the summit. The last part of the route is again on snow, on a very fine snow arête.
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| Nearing the summit | |
Difficulty The main challenges on this climb are its high altitude (the summit is over 13,200 feet high), and the challenge of rock climbing on the ridge. Often we are wearing crampons for the rock as it may be partly snow-covered. This is good training but ups the difficulty slightly. And last there is a complex glacier descent. Prerequisites Climbers need to be fit, with good endurance, and have experience in crampons. Combinations Normally, if time allows we like to do an additional climb or two from the hut, either the Portjengrat, or the Dri Horlini, or, ideally both. Also, after the traverse of the Weissmies, we can spend an additional night at the Hohsaas hut, and climb the Lagginhorn or the Fletschhorn the following day. The South Ridge of the Lagginhorn is particularly recommended. By combining the Horlini, Protungrat, Weissmies and Lagginhorn we get a great 4 or 5 day outing |
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| Sunrise with the Weissmies | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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