Ed Lynch climbing for 5 days in the Chamonix area • June 26-30, 2013

Ed Lynch, recently from Switzerland, took a bit of time from work and joined Mark for 5 days of climbing in and around Mont Blanc. We enjoyed the typical mix of weather, with a healthy portion of sun, but also a taste of cloud, rain and snow. But we did manage to have a good time on the hill for all five of our days together.

We began with the classic combination of a Traverse of the Points Lachenal, finishing on the Arete des Cosmiques. The following day, much cloudier and cooler, we managed to squeeze in the Traverse of the Aiguille d'Entreves. Then came the Chapelle de la Gliere (finishing with in the falling snow) and the next day, rock climbing in the warmth of Italy on the Diretto al Banano in Machaby, while Chamonix and the north of the Alps were subject to day0-long rain and enough snow up high to be a bit of an avalanche concern. Our last day was on the Petite Aiguille Verte with new snow and all, but brilliant sunshine.

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Here's Ed on the summit of the Petite Aiguille Verte.


A view of the Points Lachenal. We started with a bit of mixed climbing to gain the summit on the left, then traverses right as the "maneuvers" line indicates.


Our return to Chamonix for the evening was via the Arete des Cosmiques. Quite busy on this day.


We elected to do avoid the overly crowded rappels and did the "guide's traverse", rather delicate in the new snow.


Excellent conditions on the Cosmiques.


Day 2, climbing on the Aiguille d'Entreves. Mostly in the fog this day, but fun climbing even so.

I don't have photos from days 3 (the Chapelle de la Gliere) and 4 (Diretto al Banano). Oh well.


But the weather on our last day was beautiful. We climbed the left side of the Demi Lune on the Petite Aiguille Verte. Up on the left and down on the right. Mouse over to see the route.


The first pitch, above the bergschrund.


Arriving at the belay. We had good firm snow conditions, but could find no ice under all that snow.


Ed arriving at he Demi Lune.


Traversing into the second belay stance.


Pitch 3.


The ridge was very, very busy.


But with patience we made our way down. Somebody did manage to trigger an avalanche (debris below the further climbers). Even with the crowds, we had a good day.


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