David Dewar, 4 big peaks in 4 days • July 30 - August 2, 2008

Edinburgh resident David Dewar joined Mark for four big days in the Engadine. We managed to hit the weather just right, in a summer so far known for its fickle nature. Our original plan and, surprisingly enough, the one we kept to, was to meet at the Boval hut, and in the following four days, climb Piz Morteratsch, Piz Roseg, The Biancograt on Piz Bernina, finishing with a traverse of Piz Palu.

Other Recent Trips

David, still looking chipper on our last day, traversing Piz Palu.


After a late afternoon hike into the Boval hut, we were in position for our first climb, Piz Morteratsch. Glorious weather, finally. This is a fun route, not so easy really on the upper rock section.


We descended Morteratsch via the rout eon the west side, easy, though a long way down. The comfortable Tschierva hut was our home for the following two nights. Piz Roseg can be seen behind, the next day's objective.


Piz Roseg as seen from part way down Morteratsch. The normal route from the Tschierva hut, climbs close to the right-hand skyline. The true summit is the rocky peak on the left, being a few meters higher than the snow dome.


David climbing on the rocky ridge near the start of the route. There was some moderately stout climbing here, though well protected by the occasional bolt.


Arriving on the top of the snow dome.


Looking over at the rocky true summit of Roseg. With a shortage of time, no existing track and concern about softening snow, we gave it a pass.


Descending as the mists rise.


That evening we had some impressive thunder storms blowing in from the west.


Day three, must be the Biancograt. This photo was taken from the summit of Piz Morteratsch.


Fortunately, the previous evening's storm came in warm enough to avoid new snow on the lower rocky section of the climb.


Looking up at the Biancograt from part way up the ridge. Superb conditions on the climb with virtually no icy sections and great steps in the snow.


Another party at the very top of the snow ridge, where the route turns to rock.


Climbers on the final tower. From here, they will descend about 20 meters, traverse a small notch and climb the last 100, or so meters to the summit of Piz Bernina.


Looking back down on the last rocky tower. Morteratsch is the peak behind, on the right.


The very final steps to the summit. We arrived at the top just in time for a few quick views before the clouds came in for our descent to the Marco e Rosa hut.


That evening the weather turned nasty. Very fortunately for us, after dropping about 10 centimeters of new snow, it cleared and gave us this view of the hut the following morning.


New snow and climbers, heading up the normal route on Piz Bernina.


A beautiful, if chilly morning. This photo was taken just as we departed from the Marco e Rosa hut.


Looking back towards Piz Bernina, as we traverse the Bellavista Terraces on our way to Piz Palu.


Heading to Piz Palu.


Another climber on the west ridge of the west summit of Piz Palu.


Looking towards the east summit from the slightly higher, central summit.


Piz Palu's central summit.


The east ridge of the east peak, and our route of descent.