Emery and his wife Martha, typically travel in Europe for a part of their summer vacations. During these visits, Emery often takes in a bit of climbing. This year was no exception. Unfortunately, not more than a few weeks before this trip, while climbing on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies, Emery asked a bit too much of his right knee than it was prepared to give. A simple step up on hold behind, a pop, and a long and painful descent found him in the ER in Banff.

Always game, he came to the Alps anyway planning on doing whatever the body (and his doctor, of course) permitted. Descending was the big challenge, as well as any high step. But, between bouts of rain during this unstable week, we did manage to climb the SE ridge of the Index, located in the Aiguilles Rouges above Chamonix, as well as the Arête des Cosmiques on the Aiguille du Midi. Of note on the Cosmiques, were the rather amazing crowds. As minor misfortune would have it, two separate guide training groups from ENSA, the National French Climbing School, were doing their aspirant guides exams that day. The ensuing crowd caused a bottleneck at the harder sections and evoked a number of colorful and critical comments from the working guides on the route. Here are a few photos from those ascents.

  Aiguille de l"index

The upper part of the Aiguille de l'Index. The SE Ridge is the left skyline, reached by traversing the grassy ledge at the bottom. There are a number of routes on the face, worth doing, though the quality of the rock is not as good as the ridge. Descent from all routes is via a long rappel on the right, much steeper than it looks in this foreshortened photo.

  Aiguille de l'Index.

Waiting at one of the belays. Notice the ski poles to help with the hike down!

Aiguille de l'Index

This is a shot looking down the second pitch. Actually we took a considerably harder variation of the normal second pitch to get around a slower party. Even with a right leg of "an 80 year old man" as Emery put it, we were still very fast and passed a significant number of other climbers

 Aiguille de l'Index

The last moves of the second pitch variation. Nice colors in the lichen.

  Aiguille de l'Index

The clouds were in and out for much of the day. The easier third pitch traverses right around the corner then regains the ridge above on a short wall with big holds.

  Aiguille de l'Index

The summit of the Index with the Drus and Aiguille Verte behind. You can see climbers at the rappel point on the index. From them it is about 120 feet of steep rappel to a point where down climbing is easy. Climbing in the Aiguille Rouge is always a pleasure with such a magnificent backdrop as the Mont Blanc Massif.

  Cosmiques Arête

This is a view out the tunnel from which climbers enter and exit the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. Just beyond the railing the wildly exposed arête leads down to the glacier.

  Cosmiques Arête

Emery on the Cosmiques Arête. Here we are, waiting in line.

  Cosmiques Arête

This is a view of the upper third or so of the climb. You can pick out climbers on the lower ledges. The route does not go all the way to the top "needle" but ends on a terrace (hidden in this view) at the level of the terrace on the right.

  Cosmiques Arête

Unbelievable crowds. Half of this colorful groups are aspirant guides on their exams. We waited here for quite a while.

I must also say that I have enjoyed this route in solitude as well. The quality of the climbing as the spectacular position make up for a lot. Even on this gridlock day, I had a great time with the route and unforgettable views.

  Cosmiques Arête

Looking back towards Mont Blanc from the Cosmiques Arête. We passed between these wild towers with remarkable ease. You can see why this fantastic route is so popular.

  Cosmiques Arête

We have about 3 short pitches to go to the top. It took a bit of time, however, for all these climbers to move through this little steep section.