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| Ober Gabelhorn, Normal Route |  |
| Difficulty Schedule Maximum
Ratio Combine
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The Ober Gabelhorn is one of the big peaks that surround Zermatt. Even it seems that the Matterhorn gets all the attention, the summits which form the high divide west of town, the Ober Gabelhorn, Zinal Rothorn and Weisshorn are also very fine climbs. In fact many alpinist, ourselves among them, would say that they are better routes offering more enjoyable climbing, with very aesthetic lines. Another advantage is that they are far, far less crowded than their more famous neighbor and the value of this is not to be underestimated. Of course, one "must" climb the Matterhorn, if for no other reason than that of historical perspective and to marvel at the audaciousness of the first ascensionists (it still gives me the shivers to think of the seven of them, all roped together, on the very very steep mixed terrain where the route ventures off the shoulder and onto the north face). But once you have done the Matterhorn, it is time to have a bit more fun, and do some adventuring of your own. And the Ober Gabelhorn, Zinal Rothorn and Weisshorn are a great place to do it. These are all big climbs, with hut approaches that start in the valley. For the Ober Gabelhorn and Zinal Rothorn we start our walk right in downtown Zermatt. the rothorn hut is the starting point for the normal routes on both peaks. The normal route on the Ober Gabelhorn is complex, mixed, with several ups and downs and frequently switching from rock to ice and then back again. To reach the Ober Gabelhorn we must first climb over the Wellenkuppe, a climb in its own right and one which is frequently done as its own objective. We describe this climb that way elsewhere on this site. |
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| The climb of the Wellenkuppe starts on a glacier,
then, reaching the east ridge of the peak, we change to rock, finishing
with some superb rock pitches to a high bench just a few hundred feet from
the summit. A final snow and ice slope leads a short way tot he top
From the summit of the Wellenkuppe, we descend easily to the west, then must turn the Grand Gendarme, a rock tower blocking the ridge. The Gendarme is gained by several pitches of rock and the aid of a bit of fixed rope on the steepest section. After the Grand Gendarme is passed easier climbing on a snow arete follows and leads to the final rock pitches which gain the sharp summit. We retrace our steps for the descent. Usually, we descend to the valley after the climb, but this is a long way. Certainly, if we are tired we can stay another night in the Rothorn hut or, lower, in the Trift Hotel. Snow conditions are important on this climb. Ideally, good snow cover on the snowy aretes give the easiest and most secure climbing. But the rock sections need to be mostly clear of snow for the best climbing. Good conditions can occur any time in the summer season, and we will need to make our plans depending on the conditions at the time. |
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| The Ober Gabelhorn | |
Difficulty This, like all the peaks in our "three-mountain" category, is a difficult climb, suitable only for experienced alpinists. There is steep rock climbing on the rock sections, though the hard bits are short. The long snow aretes require a high level of cramponing skills and in deciding the suitability of this climb this is something we would look at closely. And last, this is a long route typically requiring 8 to 10 hours for the round trip, hut to hut. Good fitness, ability to move at a good pace on exposed ground and endurance are key. Prerequisites Climbers need to be very fit, with good endurance, comfortable on steep icy slopes with french technique cramponing and be able to efficiently climb mid-5th class rock in crampons. Combinations The Rothorn hut is also the starting point for the Zinal Rothorn as well as the Trifthorn. With all the effort required to get to the hut in the first place, it makes good sense to do another fine climb from that base. |
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| A few pitches below the top | |
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston AMGA Certified • SNGM members All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved |
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