CLOTHING
Gaiters - In summer conditions an ankle gaiter is sufficient, is cool to walk in and weighs almost nothing. If your pants are effective at keeping snow out of your boots, then you may not even need this.
Approach shoes - These will be used getting to the climbs, but in some cases you may want to carry them up the climb for use on the descent. If you plan to do any "Via Ferrata" during your visit, these would also be useful for that purpose. Any sturdy approach shoe will work, here. Sticky rubber soles, such as those on the Sportiva Boulders, are really nice for descents. In any case, a light, not too bulky low-top shoe is best.
Rock climbing shoes - Not too tight for long routes. These can be rented on a per-day basis major alpine climbing centers.
Socks - Fit your trekking or mountaineering boots with a single mid-weight sock. If we are staying in huts for several nights in a row, then you may prefer to bring two changes of socks: one for the approach and a nice clean fluffy pair for summit day or to wear on alternate days to allow for a brief wash and dry.
In huts, we often bring an additional pair of very light socks, just to escape from our warmer socks.
Pants - In our opinion the best pants incorporate Schoeller or a similar light soft-shell type fabric. Stretchy and comfortable, this kind of fabric is also somewhat resistant to wind, snow and light rain. Many pants of this kind are made by both U.S. and European manufacturers.
Rock Climbing Pants - Comvfortable easy movement, not to warm. Great pants are made by the Italian company E9.
Rain/Wind Parka - Again, go for extreme lightweight.
Lightweight Wind Shell - Very light and compact. Great if you need just a bit of protection from the wind, but don't really expect much rain.
Long Underwear Tops - A light synthetic or very light merino wool base layer. You might want to bring both a longand short-sleeved version of this.
Long Underwear bottoms - Light synthetic or wool.
Hut Socks - We like to bring a light pair of socks to switch into when in the hut. One pair is plenty.
Light insulating shirt - Something about the weight very heavy synthetic underwear.
Medium weight insulating layer - For another warm layer, you might consider a lightly insulated nylon shirt/jacket such as the Marmot's DriClime windshirt.
Gloves - Fairly lightweight WindStopper gloves are ideal. The Marmot WindStopper Glove is one example. Heavily insulated gloves for winter conditions will be too hot on most days.
Baseball cap or other sun-hat with a brim -
Neck Gaiter - The "Buff" is a Spanish invention. Its a stretchy lightweight neck gaiter, ear warmer, headband, pirate head piece, hair control unit, and Lord knows what else. Google "Buff" to learn more. Indispensable!
Around-town clothes and shoes -
Around-town clothes and shoes - For around town only. You won't want to bring these on the tour. Please note that because all of the huts provide good hut shoes/slippers, you do not need to carry a change of shoes on the tour itself.
CLIMBING GEAR
Harness - Most modern rock climbing harnesses are great. A belay loop is essential.
Rappel/Belay device - Such as the Black Diamond ATC-Guide, or Petzl Reverso 4.
Climbing helmet - Go for light weight. The Petal Meteor or Scirocco are good examples.
Locking Carabiners - Bring two locking carabiners for use with your belay device and anchoring. Go for light weight, less than 60 grams. The Petal Spirit Screw-Lock or Sm'D are good examples.
Trekking Poles - (optional) Some folks, ourselves included, like to use trekking poles. Three-section foldable (as opposed to telescoping) trekking poles are best, as they collapse shorter, are lighter, and are less cumbersome when packed.
Avoid poles with "shock absorbers", they add unnecessary length and weight, without adding any significant benefit. The Leki Micro Vario Carbon is our favorite. Be sure you bring the baskets!
MISCELLANEOUS
Pack - A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of about 30 liters is recommended. The Black Diamond Speed 30, The Millet Prolighter 30+10, and also the Deuter Guide Lite are some good choices.
Food - Breakfasts and dinners are eaten in town or in the huts. You can have the hut make you a sack lunch as well (they will charge you for it). If you have a special snack food you can't live without, you most definitely should bring some of that with you though remember to keep it light. We recommend getting lunches from the huts. All of the huts can cater to vegetarians (the normal dinner usually includes some meat). If you would like to go veggie, please tell us so we can make our request to the guardian.
Water bottle or Thermos - Bring bottles or a combination of bottle and thermos to carry 1 - 2 liters of water. On snowy 4000 meter peaks a Thermos is a nice luxury.
On very cold and high climbs bladder style hydrations systems will likely freeze up on our pre-dawn start, and are recommended only if you have lots of experience using them in very cold weather, i.e. you can keep the hose consistenly clear of fluid when not in use.
For trekking where temps are generally not so low, water bottles or a bladder work well.
On climbs like the Matterhorn, where weight is to be avoided if at all possible, leave the thremos in the hotel.
Head lamp - For this program we recommend a bright but lightweight headlamp such as the Petzl Actik Core.
Pocket knife - Keep it simple and light. The Victorinox Spartan model is our favorite.
Blister kit - Moleskin, athletic tape. Spenco Second Skin or Compeed is well worth the price.
Sun Glasses - Modern wrap-around glasses are great, if the lenses are dark enough to block 90% of visible light (it's very bright up there!). Traditional glacier glasses with side shields are also fine for this program, though you may find them hot and annoying on the trail or approach. If you use prescription glasses you should get prescription dark glasses or use contact lenses if you can. We like to use sport sunglasses with dark lenses, designed for skiing or mountaineering.
Sunscreen - Look for as small a container as possible, or decant into a smaller container. There is no point in carrying month's worth of cream on a short outing.
Lip Protection - with sun screen.
Toiletries - Here again, try to minimize, for instance look for those small tubes of toothpaste. If you like bring 4 or 5 "handi-wipes" or similar.
Camera - (optional, of course) It is very helpful to have a small camera bag that can be hung around the neck, attached to the pack, or stuffed in a pocket so that it is handy, but doesn't interfere with movement. Please don't carry your camera inside your pack.
Most phones can take great pictures but are easy to drop and limited battery life.
Mobile phone (optional) - Many folks like to carry phones. In general, this is a good idea from a security perspective. Be aware, however, that battery life is limited, especially when the phone is searching for a service provider as it may often do in this remote setting, so you will probably need to leave it turned off except when making a call. Watching movies or playing games on your phone also consumes a lot of battery power. Keep your phone in "airplane" mode to save power. Sorry, no wifi.
Entertainment (optional) - Preload your phone with a couple of good books from Audible.com or your local library for days of listening pleasure. Snipped-out New York Times crossword puzzles, a journal, small paperbacks, or a pack of cards. All could be fun to have along.
Phone and camera charging - If you need to charge electronics, bring the appropriate cable as well as a Swiss/Euro (squashed hexagon) to USB adapter. Wifi is available in the hotel.
Passport, or photocopy - We prefer to leave our passports, plane tickets, etc. safely in the lowlands and carry only a photocopy on the tour. But some folks feel naked without it, and for them it is best to carry it.
Small duffel - For leaving street clothes in hotels. Its a good idea to lock it.
Money - We usually use ATM cards to supply us with cash. Hotels, shops, most huts and restaurants accept credit cards. You'll need cash, however for hut extras and any remote restaurants. We recommend leaving your passport and similar valuables with your baggage in the hotel, awaiting your return.
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