Ama Dablam Expedition Length: 31 days Schedule: Please contact us Fees: Maximum ratio: 2:1 maximum ratio Maximum group size: 4 climbers with 2 guides

Namche Bazar and the Kwande Peaks.

Ama Dablam is the most beautiful mountain in the world. Though it feels odd to say it (we have had the pleasure of climbing among many outrageously beautiful peaks) We have to admit, that if we were forced to choose one peak in a beauty contest, this fantastic Nepalese summit would have to be it. This 6,857m/22,490ft peak is one of the best climbs in the Khumbu, and not to be missed!

On this expedition we will trek in the Khumbu area, climb one or two acclimatization summits before moving up to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. From Base Camp we establish two or three camps above (depending on how we feel), before summitting.

There are many different strategies for climbing high mountains. All of them require some time spent acclimating. Ama Dablam is quick to access, too quick for unacclimated climbers to simply to head to Base Camp and continue directly on up. Some days are needed for adequate acclimatization. Over the years, we have come to believe that it is more fun to spend time acclimating on lesser summits than it is to try an acclimate on the final objective. On some peaks, such as Aconcagua, there are not many other good objectives on which to acclimate. However, because Ama Dablam's Base Camp can be reached in only 4 days fly/hike from Kathmandu (for acclimated folks) we think it makes good sense to acclimate while visiting some other areas of the beautiful Khumbu area. For this reason we have structured our trip with trekking and climbing prior to even arriving at Base Camp.

Our trip begins with a flight into Lukla. From there we trek toward Mount Everest, through Namche Bazar and Tengboche. We will spend a bit of time acclimating at about 14000 near Dingboche, climbing Chuukung Ri and then crossing the pass of Kongma La to descend into Lobuche. A brief trip to Kala Patar (the classic view of Everest) and then to Lobuche Peak Base Camp. We will climb the SW Ridge of of the east summit of Lobuche East—a fun route on exposed snow and winding ridge, before descending to Pangboche and the short hike to Ama Dablam Base Camp.

Like the vast majority of Ama Dablam ascents, our route is the SW Ridge, first attempted by Sir Edmund Hillary in 1961. Above Base Camp we will plan on placing 2 camps. Some climbers prefer to place three camps above Base, but our more thorough acclimatization in the first half of the trip should make the third, uncomfortable camp unnecessary. The itinerary is described in more detail below.

The climb has become justifiably popular and as a result is now usually completely equipped with fixed rope from Camp I to the summit. The fixed rope is both a good and a bad thing. The good news is that the rope makes the climb feasible for guiding, and a reasonable objective for a 3 to 4 week trip. Without the rope the climb would be much too difficult and dangerous for the vast majority of climbers. The bad news is that the fixed rope alters the character of the climb, and most definitely reduces the otherwise considerable difficulty. We will use the fixed rope both for security and as an aid to climbing in the ascent, as well as for rappelling during the descent.

Skills Required

Ama Dablam from Base Camp. Camp I is easy to reach, though a long way up. Camp II is not much higher than I but much technical climbing is required to get there.

This climb is appropriate for alpinists with previous illness-free high altitude experience (excluding minor AMS) on peaks of about 6000 meters or more. The climbing on Ama Dablam can be difficult and strenuous. Those who are comfortable following 5.8 rock in rock shoes should qualify. The ice climbing involves many hundreds of meters of frontpointing. Climbers who have a varied history in alpine climbing, including many technical ascents and good experience at altitudes higher than 6000 meters are qualified.

Because of the nature of the route and the fixed lines, climbers will typically climb independently, unbelayed except for their attachment to the fixed rope. On descent climbers will rappel independently, again attached only to the fixed rope. This style of climbing requires a high level of reliability and responsibility on the part of climbers. Though the systems are simple, and when done correctly keep climbers well attached to the mountain, errors and brief inattention can be deadly.

We will spend time reviewing all the specialized techniques (there are not many) for climbing fixed rope.

A high level of fitness and overall health is a must.

If you have any questions as to your suitability as a member of the team please contact us.

Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston
UIAGM Internationally Licensed Mountain Guides

AMGA Certified • SNGM members