Aiguille du Tour, Normal Route


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2 days

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3 climbers per guide

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The Aiguille du Tour lies opposite the Aiguille du Chardonnet on the Tour Glacier. It is host to several fine moderate routes, all of which can be done in a reasonable day from the Albert Premier hut - easily reached in a 3-4 hour approach via chair lift and foot from the valley - or they can be combined with a longer tour taking in summits on the Tour glacier, or a traverse from the or Trient glaciers.

The normal route on the Tour, the East Face, is a popular and varied outing, taking in glacier walking and moderately steep snow slopes, crossing a col (and border) from France into Switzerland, and scrambling up stepped granite ledges and faces to the satisfyingly small summit block.

This climb is only moderately strenuous and is suitable for beginning climbers having been introduced to basic cramponing techniques, use of ice ax and roped glacier travel.


This climbs starts with a glacier approach. Though there are some crevasses to avoid, it is technically easy. After climbing to the Col Superior du tour, we cross the upper Trient Glacier to the base of the final rock. The rock section involves perhaps 150 meters, 450 feet, of climbing, mostly quite easy, but with a few more difficult moves.


Though no previous technical experience is necessary a good level of fitness and experience with rough hiking and climbing on snow is necessary. Previous experience in glacier travel and with crampons is helpful but not required.


The Aiguille du Tour can be made part of a good three day outing by combining it with the Tête Blanche and a crossing of the gentle Trient Plateau to the Trient hut. The itinerary would start with an approach to the Albert apremier hut on the first day. Then, on the second day we would climb the Tête Blanche, a moderate snow climb, and continue on to the Trient hut. On the last day we would climb the Aiguille du Tour and return to the France side of the range back over the Col Superior du Tour.

Aiguille du Tour from Trient hut
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Aiguille du Tour from the west.
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Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston
UIAGM Internationally Licensed Mountain Guides

AMGA Certified • SNGM members
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