Difficulty


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Guiding Fees

Maximum Ratio
1:1 for Matterhorn and Eiger

2:1 is possible for Mont Blanc and training climbs

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See also:
Mont Blanc & Matterhorn 8-day program
Jungfrau, Monte Rosa & Mont Blanc 9-day program
Mont Blanc
Matterhorn

Eiger from Kleine Scheidegg	Photo Info

This 12-day itinerary takes in the 3 most famous peaks in the Alps: Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger. The schedule allows for several days acclimatization prior to our climb of Mont Blanc, as well as 2 extra days to accommodate bad weather or other needs. If we are able to achieve our primary goals of the three peaks early we can use the additional 2 days for ascents of the Mönch or the Jungfrau, in the Grindelwald area, or one of the many peaks in the Zermatt area; the Breithorn, Castor, Monte Rosa and others.

This program begins in the Chamonix valley. After a number of training and acclimatization climbs followed by our ascent of Mont Blanc, we move on to Zermatt and the Matterhorn. The itinerary finishes in Grindelwald, access point for the Eiger.

For safety reasons we climb at a maximum ratio of one climber per guide on the Matterhorn and the Eiger. If you are a group of two climbers, we can do Mont Blanc and the training climbs at a 2:1 ratio. But when we finally go to the Eiger and Matterhorn, the greater difficulty of these climbs requires a 1:1 ratio. We would add another guide for the last 7 days of this program.

Both the Eiger and the Matterhorn need to be in good, relatively dry climbing condition to be reasonable objectives. Please see our Matterhorn Conditions page for a much more detailed discussion of this. In general, the comments there apply equally well to the Eiger.

Sunrise on Mont Maudit	photo info

Difficulty

This is a challenging program for experienced climbers. Mont Blanc is the easiest of the three peaks, but even on this largely snowy mountain, we encounter steep climbing especially if we opt for the Traverse as our chosen route. Here, belayed climbing is common when traversing the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul, as well as on two steep ice pitches on Mont Maudit. The climb of Mont Blanc is long, usually taking 6 to 7 hours from our start at the Cosmiques hut. And add to that the 2450 meters, almost 8000 feet, descent of the Goûter route, and we have a very long day, indeed.

Both the Matterhorn and Eiger are more difficult still, and are primarily rock climbs, with some steep snow. The challenge on these peaks is to keep to good time while climbing carefully and smoothly. In technical terms the difficulties are not extreme, being only about 5.6 (French 4c). But both routes are very exposed and entail thousands of feet of steep 4th class rock that must be climbed quickly and surely. The Matterhorn involves over 1200 meters, 4000 feet, of steep climbing from hut to summit, which must be descended as well. Climbers must be able to keep to a pace which allows an ascent in 4 to 5 hours. The descent takes about the same amount of time.

Prerequisites

Participants for this 12-day program must have previous rock and ice climbing experience and be in very good condition. You should be able to climb 5.7 rock (French 5a) on a top rope quickly and with little difficulty. You should have extensive experience scrambling on steep rock, such as climbing in the Sierra, Cascades or Tetons. You need to be comfortable cramponing on steep 50 degree frozen snow or soft ice, both in ascent and descent.