Emery Dameron, Peru Alpine Climbing • May & June 2004

Emery's trip into the Paron coincided with Bill Rossbach's. While Kathy climbed with Bill, Mark climbed with Emery. As with Bill's trip, after a bit of hiking to Laguna Churup to acclimate with made the short trek into the Quebrada Paron Base Camp.

We climbed Pisco West (virtually) and made an attempt on the south ridge of Nevado Paron. A final attempt on the north Face of Pisco East was turned back short because of rockfall potential.

After hiking out, taking a good day of rest in Huaraz, we headed back into the hills, this time to climb Chopicalqui. Though the snow was deep and there was little track, with the powerful legs and lungs of Peter Alvarado, we made the summit in fine style. Emilio Alvarado, Peter's father and our chef, camp manager and all-around good guy, has been working with us for about 20 years. Peter is now an Aspirant guide and is going through the Peruvian guides training program.

See more photos from Bill's trip in the same area.

Other Recent Trips

Our first day, hiking into Laguna Churup. We took a slightly different route this time, ending up on the top of the rocky hill just south of the lake. Peter, Emery and Kathy soak up the views.


Quebrada Paron. This view is from part way up the route to Pisco. Laguna Paron is the green lake to the left. Base Camp, just hidden from view, is at the near end of this lake. The gray morainal lake on the right is actually about 1000 feet higher than the valley floor. Behind are the Caraz peaks.


Lupine at the lake edge on the hike into Base Camp.


Sunset on Piramide, from Base Camp.


Emery and Peter, on the way up to Pisco Oeste. This side of Pisco is a long, long climb. It is much further than the standard route from the south, and also involves some tricky climbing on the glacier to the north of the Pisco-Huandoy col.

Here we are in the morning, looking across at Caraz I and II.


Artesonraju from the southwest.


Emery and Peter on the west ridge of Pisco Oeste. This year there was a steep step that, while not especially difficult, did turn parties not psychologically prepared for a bit of technicality.


High on Pisco Oeste. Huandoy behind.


Huandoy at sunset.


Emery and Nevado Paron. Our next climb was one of this peak. We first climbed up to the saddle between the south summit and the main, the more or less followed the ridge left to within about 150 feet of the summit. A final wall (up the left side of the snow blob just right of the summit) of rotten snow turned us back.

But is was a good day's climbing as the photos below will show.


High Camp for our climb of Paron. Artesonraju is the big peak seen here.


Climbing up to the col between the south and main peaks of Nevado Paron. We climbed 2 pitches of steep snow to reach the col.


Emery on the south ridge of Paron. Chacraraju behind.


Peter and Emery on Paron. Laguna Paron can be seen in the background.


Steep snow climbing on Paron. From left to right is Chacraraju, Piramide, and Huandoy.


Our route on the south ridge of Paron involved a lot of sideways climbing on the west face. Here Emery finishes a rappel on the descent. Quitaraju is the big peak behind.


On the descent of Nevado Paron.


Walking back down the Paron Glacier in the late afternoon.


A few days later we found ourselves back in Huaraz, preparing for our climb of Chopicalqui. We spent one very enjoyable afternoon having lunch with the family of Emilio Alvarado, our camp chef, boss and all-around manager. Here we are in Emilio's house. Kathy on the left, then Peter (Emilio's son), Pedro (his brother-in-law), Pedro's wife Yolanda, and Rosalina (Emilio's wife) on the right. Rosalina knitted the scarves she is holding for us as gifts.


After our rest in Huaraz, we headed back into the hills, this time to Chopicalqui, a 20,800 foot summit just east of Huascarán. This is a photo from a previous trip to Pisco, but shows the mountain well. The route is more or less up the right-hand skyline.


We had some tough weather on this climb, with new snow and much cloud. This photo was take at our Camp I, Moraine Camp about 5000 meters high. Kathy prepares bacon, soon to be followed by scrambled eggs. Peter looks on.


Our summit day on Chopicalqui. The sun slices through a hole in the cloud to briefly light up the east side of Huascarán.


Peter leads up the final pitch of Chopicalqui in the cloud. Actually, Peter lead virtually the entire climb. He is so strong that the fastest way for us to manage the deep postholing was to put him out front. Thank you Peter!


Just as we arrived on the summit, the clouds parted to give us a bit of sun for the summit photo. Emery, Kathy and Peter, giving the "thumbs up".


On the descent, looking down into the Quebrada Ulta.


Arriving back at high camp after the climb. We packed up and walked down to the Moraine Camp for the night.


Later on our summit day, after picking up high camp, we weave through crevasses on the lower glacier. Chacraraju is the peak on the left.


Emery leaving the glacier.


The next morning dawns with better weather. This view is from Moraine Camp.


The sun peeks over the shoulder of Chopicalqui as we hike down the trail.


Kathy and Emery heading down to meet the van.


Looking back up at Huascarán from near the trailhead.

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