Scott Schmidler Alps Climbing • July 2003

Scott Schmidler had just a few days between conferences in Europe, and put them to good use climbing in the Mont Blanc area. With four days of hot, clear weather, we started with the Midi-Plan Traverse, then continued on in rapid succession, with the Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde, the Contamine-Grisson on the Tacul North Face Triangle, the Cosmiques Arête and the Eperon Minettes and summit of the Aiguille du Peigne.

Other Recent Trips

On the Midi-Plan Traverse. Here we are looking toward the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc.


The summit of the Aiguille du Plan from about the same place as the previous photo.


The main rock step on the Traverse. Here we have to make a 25-meter rappel to the ic slopes below.


Taking a bit of lunch on the summit of the Aiguille du Plan. The Chamonix valley can be seen far below.


Reversing our route on the Traverse, not far from the Aiguille du Midi.


One of the many exposed snow arêtes on the Traverse.


Back at the Cosmiques we enjoyed the fine sunset on Mont Blanc du Tacul. In 2 days time we will climb the Contamine-Grisson, the left edge of the North Face Triangle seen here.


However, before we get to the Tacul, we climbed the Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde. In this photo we are about half way up the route, climbing a mix of ice and firm snow.


Higher in the couloir.


Scott enjoys interesting mixed climbing along the ridge at the top of the couloir.


A bit further along the ridge, we climb a fine snow arête. Mont Blanc du Tacul behind.


Back at the Cosmiques hut. Here we are suiting up to climb the Contamine-Grisson, the left edge of the rock triangle seen behind.


Climbing in the initial entry gully.


Easy mixed climbing along the ridge crest after the couloir.


Excellent ice, though rock bands offer fun climbing.


A narrow ice runnel high on the route.


The descent involved a bit of steepness as we rappelled an crevasse wall on the Tacul.


On our way back to the Aiguille du Midi we also climbed up and and over the Cosmiques Arête. (I have no photos here of that climb). After, we dropped down to Chamonix, for a quick shower, ice cream and beer (no necessarily in that order!) and then back up to the Plan de l' Aiguille hut seen here. The following day we climbing the Aiguille du Peigne.


The Chamonix Aiguilles as seen from the Plan de l'Aiguille hut. the Aiguille du Peigne is the rock summit on the right.


Sunset, flowers and the Aiguille de l'M.


Climbing on the Aiguille du Peigne, not far from the summit.


Exposed ridge climbing with incredible surroundings on the Peigne.


Scott climbs a good crack.


Scott on the summit of the Aiguille du Peigne.

All images, layout and text ©2003 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved