Canadian Rockies with Chris Kulp
Mount Louis, Kain Route

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In late June of 2001, Chris Kulp and I spent 10 days climbing in the Canadian Rockies. As is not so uncommon in the Rockies we were chased around by the weather, trying to make the best of the ever changing mix of sun, cloud rain and snow. Here are is one of the climbs we enjoyed.

Mount Louis is one of Conrad Kain's great routes. In 1916 he climbed this outrageous looking peak with A.H. MacCarthy in a time that is still fast for today's high-tech climbers.


The hike in begins with a short walk through these wonderful woods.

 



And here is the peak itself. Actually much of the route is hidden below the level of the trees though most of the harder climbing is seen here. The climbs starts below the clean wall on the right and crosses up and left to the right-hand of the 2 parallel pillars which lead to the summit. Kain climbed the horrendous chimney between the two ribs. Later, Walter Perren climbed a more pleasant and cleaner crack on the rib itself, making for a better finish.

The descent is via a series of rappels down the back.


Climbing on the upper part of the mountain. There is serious exposure on this route.


Here you can see the upper ribs which lead to the summit. Kain ascended the deep gash between while the Perren variation climbs the distinct crack to the right of the chimney.


The second pitch of the crack on the upper pillar.


Getting closer!


And finally, the summit.


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