|Mani Puliti & Nez Rouge|
Mani Puliti and Nez Rouge are two recently established rock climbs in the Aiguilles Rouges. The best way to describe these routes is "just plain fun". They are neither long nor particularly committing. There are no hanging seracs, avalanches or other common alpine nasties. The approach is about as friendly as you'll find anywhere, and the views are so good as to be occasionally too distracting.
These are side by side routes on the same rock formation, both about 6 pitches in length and both bolted to allow the climbing line to follow the best rock. This is a common practice in the Rouges, and indeed most of the new rock routes in the massif have adopted this ethic. Rather than being limited to following crack lines for protection possibilities, these bolted routes can wander anywhere, taking in the best climbing, most exciting situations and positions and and the best rock.
Difficulty is about at 5.7 for each route. While these are both distinct lines and considered separate climbs, we feel that the best climbing takes in the first few pitches of Nez Rouge and the last three or so leads of Mani Puliti. This combination includes the hardest climbing on both routes, but we like it the most.
The climbs lie on a buttress of the Aiguille de la Gliere and are very readily reached from the Index chair lift. Packs can be left at the base though a pair of shoes for the decent, a wind breaker and an energy bar or two is the recommend gear to bring. There is no snow under normal conditions.
|The views from Mani Puliti|
These are rock routes on an alpine buttress. But with light packs (or none at all!), a sunny exposure and easy access, they are not difficult or overly serious climbs. But they are lots of fun. Difficult is to about 5.7 or maybe 5.8, and is greatest if the first 3 pitches of Nez Rouge are combined with the last 3 of Mani Puliti.
From the top we switch out of our rock shoes and walk back to the base.
Access to the route is very easy from the Flegere lift system and not strenuous.
This is a route for rock climbers who are comfortable following rock at 5.6 to 5.7 in difficulty. Belaying experience is needed.
Most of the time when we do these routes we do them as day climbs and this is the sensible way to manage them. However, if you are ambitious and quick you can combine them with other routes in the area, such as the South Arête of the Aiguille de l'Index or other rock routes nearby.
|Chris on the last pitch|
Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston
AMGA Certified • SNGM members
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