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Vining |
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For
the time being we are not offering any trips in the Inyo National
Forest (most of the places in the Eastern Sierra Nevada we might
want to go, including the Lee Vining ice climbing areas). This is
largely due to the fact that we are in either the Alps, or the Himalaya
until well into November 2006, but also partly due to a problem
with the US Forest Service in the Inyo National Forest.
In the past we have run our Sierra work through permits held by
our friends at the Sierra Mountain Center, working as SMC employees.
However, recent issues with another local guide service have made
SMC a bit worried about our advertising of Sierra trips as Cosley
& Houston Alpine Guides trips. Also the Forest Service is trying
to sort out the thorny question of what is an employee and what
is a subcontractor, and where we fit in.
Until both issues are resolved we may be prohibited from offering
trips in the Sierra. Currently, there is for all intents and purposes
a moratorium on new permits (as there has been for years), and also
USFS requirements and bureaucracy associated with maintaining permits
is so costly and time consuming as to render the option of obtaining
our own permits both impossible and, well, impossible.
We
encourage you to write/call/email/visit the offices of the Inyo
National Forest, and urge them to sort out the confusion in such
a way that allows us to guide on Forest Service land, as well as
to advertise possible trips as we do. Working as SMC employees was
one acceptable solution for us, and it is our hope that this avenue
of access will again work for us in the future.
But
for now, no trips for us on the Inyo National Forest.
There
are two popular areas for winter ice climbing in the Sierra, both
near the eastern edge of Yosemite National Park.
June
Lake is an excellent beginner's and intermediate area with iced
over slabs of rock with excellent terrain for practicing skills
on mixed and terrain and thin ice. There are routes up to about
three pitches in this area.
June
Lake gets more sun and tends to be a bit warmer. The ice here, also
disappears more quickly as the spring arrives.
Lee
Vining is located a bit further north and offers more longer routes
on steeper terrain. Depending on the winter, routes of up to 3 pitches
in length can be found. What makes Lee Vining so special is the
closness of the clean granite slabs. This gives the are a feeling
of big alpine adventure.
There
is a great variety of climbs at all levels of difficulty, in this
relatively small area. Routes are from Grade 2 to 4 in difficulty
and normally from 1 to 3 pitches in length. In the photo above a
climber moves out of the "cave" on Spiral Staircase.
We
provide guiding and instruction at all levels. We can put together
a custom program for you or for your group, designed to fit your
abilities, interests and aspirations.
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