Haute Route Ski Touring – Personal Equipment List

In the spring, the weather in the mountains can do anything, from blazing hot sunshine to blizzard conditions. We need to prepare for it all.

Either randonnée or telemark equipment is suitable for the Haute Route, though the vast majority of skiers will be happier on Randonnée. Whatever type of gear you use you should be able to ski in difficult snow with good speed control in tight confines. The track we follow is occasionally exposed and solid side slipping skills are essential.

Virtually everything you need can either be rented or purchased in Chamonix. In fact, given the range of available models, it is not a bad idea to plan on equipping yourself entirely in France. The only exception to this might be if you have unusual requests, either in boot or ski size, or need particular gear. You need only allow the time to do it. We can help you with your shopping and rentals if you give us warning so we can set aside the time.

On the Classic Haute Route, we normally spend a night in a hotel in Bourg-St-Pierre. Usually this is our 2nd night out. Here we can wash up and even wash a few items of clothes in the sink (though we can only air dry them). We mention it here so you can better plan (and hopefully minimize) your extra clothes and toiletries.

CLOTHING

Ski Boots - Randonnée or Telemark.

Randonnée - There are a range of good boots on the market. Generally, the lighter boots are more comfortable for walking, while the heavier boots are not quite so comfortable but provide better downhill skiing control.

In the US it can be difficult to compare fit from one brand or model to another as few shops carry more than one kind of randonnée boot, if they carry them all. In Chamonix, you can try on a range of different boot types and sizes to get the best fit for you. Of all the pieces of gear that you might consider buying in France, this is perhaps the most logical, as fit can only really be determined by trying on the boot. The larger sports shops in Chamonix, such as Snell’s, typically stock at least a dozen different models of randonnée boots, a range of offerings you won’t find anywhere in the US.

Garmont, Dynafit, Lowa and Scarpa seem to be the most popular brands these days. Most, if not all, of these companies have models specifically designed to fit women.

Telemark - Scarpa, Crispi, Garmont are all excellent. You will probably find a better selection of Nordic boots in the States than you will in Europe, though every year we see more and more tele boots on the shelves in France. If you use Nordic gear be sure your boot crampons can be fitted to your boots.

Boot liners - Many boot manufacturers are offering some sort of 'thermo-fit" liner with boots as "standard equipment". This is great and helps improve fit and warmth, while reducing weight. For those that don't you might want to consider using a custom liner. These liners are heated and then molded to your foot and boot for a perfect fit. Kathy, who often has boot fitting problems, has a pair in her randonnée boots and describes the quality of fit as “unbelievable!”.

Custom footbeds - Custom foot beds, or simply higher quality replacements can help tremendously with fitting, comfort and ski control.

Socks - Generally you will want to fit your boots with one medium sock, or perhaps a liner sock and a medium sock. If your boots are too loose you will lose skiing control. Bring a spare change.

Pants - Finding the perfect pants combination can be a challenge. You need versatility, with the option for additional warmth as well as good protection from bad weather. One combination that works well in a number of conditions is listed here.

Most of the time we like to wear a light stretch synthetic pant with a hard finish. Excellent examples of this type of pant are made by Patagonia, (Super Guide Pant) as well as Marmot, Arc'teryx, Mammut, Schoffel and others. These pants can generally cover the tops of the boots (so you don’t need gaiters) are not too warm when it's hot out, and have a good hard finish for wind resistance. This may be a good item to purchase in Europe, where selection is very good.

Snow/Wind Pants - You will need something for truly bad weather. A light-weight Gore-tex or other water resistant but breathable layer is your best bet. Be sure you can get them on over your ski boots. The lighter the better. Avoid pants with suspenders as they are much more complicated to get into “on the fly”.

Snow/Wind Jacket - For ski tours we have been moving away from truly water proof fabrics and using water repellent windproof finish fabrics commonly called "soft shell" in the latest marketing hype. Though you might get a bit wet in the rain, nearly all the time that it precipitates, it comes as snow. Of course Gore-tex works well, but some of the more breathable fabrics have a larger comfort range. Again, go for extreme lightweight. Be sure your jacket has a good hood!

Long Underwear Tops - Very light synthetic or wool.

Long Underwear Bottoms - (optional) Light synthetic or wool for higher climbs in inclement weather. With the climbing pants described above and a shell, there is no need for long underwear bottoms. This is a luxury item some folks use in the huts.

Light fleece shirt - Something about the weight of Polartec 100, (heavy synthetic underwear).

Light weight second layer - Light is right. Some of the new new, very light down sweaters (some even with hoods!) are perfect.

Light weight T-shirt - We like to bring a light and comfortable shirt to change once we get to the huts. It is nice to get out of your sweaty long underwear tops. Most of the huts sell their own T-shirts, usually with a nice drawing of the hut on it. If you what to save a bit of weight, buy a hut shirt!

Thin Gloves - Most of the time you will be comfortable with a pair of simple “WindStopper” gloves.

Warmer gloves - When the temperature drops you will want a somewhat warmer pair of gloves. The best solution is a very light pair of nylon insulated ski gloves. The Marmot Randonnée glove is a good example. Gloves made for climbing or with a lot of leather are generally too heavy. Mittens are not recommended.

Ear band - To keep the cold breezes off the ears, but avoid over heating.

Warm Hat or Balaclava -

Neck Gaiter - To cover the lower face and/or nose in icy winds. We use a Spanish invention called a “Buff” - a light stretchy tube you can wear in at least a dozen different ways. This can double as an ear band.

Sun hat - A baseball cap works well. This is also useful in keeping snow off your face when it is coming more or less straight down.

Around-town clothes and shoes - We won't carry these on the tour, buy you'll want them around town.

SKIING & CLIMBING GEAR

Skis - Skis seem to get fatter and fatter, and better and better. Increases in torsional stiffness, better bindings and beefier boots have allowed skis to grow in width and still offer reasonable edge-grip on hard snow. For ski touring in the Alps, you are generally better off with a wide ski rather than a narrow one. The most difficult snow conditions we encounter are more likely to involve mush, breakable crust or other unpleasantness that a wider ski will float over.

Because everyone is different and has varying abilities in different snow types, along with varying levels of fitness, it is very difficult for us to generalize about the best ski to use on this tour.

• If you are a typical tourer then concentrate on getting a ski that is easy to turn in tough snow (mid-fat). As an example for this last look for a ski that is about 120-80-105, more or less, and of medium stiffness. Even wider can be good! A good ski to consider is the K2 Shuksan.
• If you are a super expert skier and very fit, then almost anything will work, skinny, fat, light of heavy, you can do it all.
• If you are not so fit, but a super expert skier, than concentrate on the weight of the ski and binding combined.

Shop for ski dimension and stiffness then buy the lightest you can find that meets your size requirements. And there are lots of other great skis by a number of manufacturers.

Avoid "twin-tip" skis unless you really, really like that particular ski. The tipped up tails can make some kick turns harder and also make the skis less appropriate for use in some types of snow anchors–though admittedly on this tour we should not need them for this purpose. We feel the twin-tip provides no advantage for a backcountry application.

A ski with a short turn radius, say, about 20 meters, can give you an advantage both with quick turns on the steep and in getting the skis around in bad snow. While a short radius ski is not so good on the groomers at high speed, easy turnability is more than welcome with the slower speeds and more challenging terrain of the “off-piste”.

We feel that many, if not most skis designed for touring are not wide enough. Go wide and you'll be glad you did.

Ski Bindings - For randonnée bindings there are essentially four different manufacturers, Diamir/Fritschi, Dynafit, Naxo and Silvretta.

The most popular bindings are the Fritschi and the Dynafit. The choice depends largely on the choice between convenience and weight with the Dynafit winning the weight medal and the Fritschi better in the convenience department.

In the Dynafit line the Vertical ST looks good (Kathy skis on this). And for those really trying to shave grams the Speed model really is an amazing piece of engineering. However, the lack of ski brakes on the Speed requires an exceptional degree of attention when putting them on or taking off on the summit of a remote peak! Remember, however, the Dynafit lightness comes at the cost of being harder to use–harder to get into, and harder to switch from touring to downhill mode or back again. We recommend them only if you think you will be touring more than about 20 days per season, as it takes about this much use to learn how to use them effectively. If you use the Dynafit binding you must be sure to use Dynafit compatible boots.

For many skiers, the Diamir Explore, outfitted with ski brakes is a good choice. Though heavier than the Dynafit, it is easier to use. Fritschi also makes the Freeride Plus, but unless you really want to crank your DIN setting to above 10 (not recommended for all except big cliff-huckers) the Explore is plenty sturdy and a lighter, and usually cheaper, binding.

The Silvretta Pure weighs in somewhere between the Fritschi and the Dynafit in terms of grams on your feet. It is a good binding but has a potential problem if you mistreat it (fall forward while walking) in which case it can break irreparably.

The Naxo offers no significant advantage over the Fritsch. It is heavier, and we don't believe the hype about their "Virtual Rotation System" or the ability of the binding to withstand more mogul bashing than the Diamir models. The new Marker binding also is not appropriate for ski touring. Much too heavy.

Telemark skiers can use any number of good quality bindings. Some bindings, such as the Karhu 7TM, have options for a comfortable hinged touring mode, as well as brakes and ski crmapons (though the whole kit is quite heavy). Remember, you must be able to equip your skis with ski crampons, listed below. This may effect your binding choice.

Ski Crampons - Required for both randonnée and telemark systems. You will need to equip your skis with removable crampons, also known as harscheisen or couteaux. For some telemark setups they may be difficult to find. All modern randonnée bindings have ski crampons designed specifically for that binding.

Telemark skiers! - You MUST equip your skis with ski crampons, they are required for this trip. Telemark binding manufacturers have been depressingly slow to offer an optional crampon. Shame on them!

There are several models of binding that now include a ski crampon option. Alternatively some folks have mounted part of the Dynafit binding and been able to use the Dynafit crampons. Whatever system you use, be sure it will work well. Also, Voile has a ski crampon that can be added to many tele bindings. Try it out before you come.

Martin Volken of Pro Ski Service in Seattle can help you out with this challenge. Give yourself plenty of advance time to find this essential piece of gear!

Ski brakes - For the Fritshi and Silvretta bindings we recommend ski brakes as opposed to run-away straps. Brakes are quicker to use than straps, are somewhat safer in avalanche terrain, and reduce the odds of a ski getting away from you when putting them on or taking off on steep terrain. The Dynafit brakes on the Vertical ST work resonably well, but some of the older models have not deployed consitently.

Ski Skins - There are a number of great skins on the market these days. Ascension (now part of Black Diamond) skins glide and grip very, and have good adhesive, but the "Standard" models are a bit heavy and bulky, and the lighter weight "GlideLite" have fraying problems. Colltex skins are good, and there are other manufacturers as well (of which we are somewhat less familiar). For most skins (70mm or more in width) you generally don’t need the tail hook. Skins should be shaped to fit shaped skis, narrow in the middle and wider at the tips and tails. For our skis, which are a wide 115mm at the tip, we buy about 95 mm skins and trim them to fit. Many skin manufacturers are selling skins already cut to fit shaped skis.

If your skins are not shaped, it is high time you went shopping!

Ski Poles - A two section pole can be useful for touring, allowing you to shorten them for downhill skiing and lengthen them for long sections of poling or skating.

Ski Strap - A simple strap to hold your skis together when carried on your pack or over a shoulder can be handy. Get it long enough to go around your poles as well.

Ice Axe - Light is most definitely right! We have a pair of Camp XLA210 axes, extremely light at something around 8 ounces each. Mark’s is 50 cm and Kathy’s 45cm. The Cassin Ghost is another very light axe. These tools have aluminum heads and are well suited for ski touring. They are, however not so good for summer climbing. For a more versatile axe consider the 53 cm Grivel Air-Tech Evolution. Suunto USA in California imports Grivel equipment. The Camp axes and others like it, can be found in Chamonix.

No wrist loop is needed! You are better off without one. Also do not bring rubber pick or spike protectors. These sorts of protectors are meant for use in planes, trains, cars and subways. Leave them in the hotel when you go into the mountains.

Boot Crampons - Needed for everyone. You will need boot crampons for some of the steeper ascents we make. The best crampons for this type of use are made of aluminum. Aluminum crampons are not as durable as steel, and they are not great on real ice climbing, but the weight savings are considerable. They are perfectly adapted to ski mountaineering. We strongly recommend purchasing aluminum crampons.

Aluminum crampons can be hard to find in the states. Wilson’s Eastside sports in Bishop, CA regularly carries them. Camp, Stubai and Grivel makes a couple good models. They can easily be found in Europe in most any sports shop. Be sure they fit your boots well as many have toe-bails designed specifically for either climbing boots, or ski boots, but not both.

Carry your crampons deep inside your pack. Don’t bring rubber point protectors. We use very simple and light nylon bags for our crampons We think the OR or similar bags, with a stiff backing are too big, bulky and heavy.

Climbing Harness - A lightweight simple harness is ideal. A belay loop is a good idea, as are adjustable leg loops.

Locking Carabiner - Bring a single locking carabiner. A simple locking “D” is fine.

MISCELLANEOUS

Avalanche Transceiver - We supply avalanche transceivers but if you own a single frequency 457 kHz transceiver you should bring it. If you are considering buying a new beacon, our current favorite is the new Mammut Barryvox, though the BCA Tracker is also a good choice. A single set of fresh batteries will easily last the tour. (Actually they should last a whole season.) There is a breed of new 3-antenna beacons out there that offer other features, but the jury is still out on whether or not they are worth the added cost.

Shovel - We also supply shovels, but again, if you own a very lightweight shovel with a lexan blade, you should bring it as well.

Pack - A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of about 35 liters (2100 cubic inches) is recommended. Ski attachments are very useful. We strongly advise against bring a pack larger than 40 liters. The large size weighs more, but perhaps more important does not keep the packs weight close to the body as well as a smaller pack, making skiing much harder. A good 35 liter pack weighs about 2 lbs.

Food - Breakfasts and dinners are eaten in town or in the huts. You can have the hut make you a sack lunch as well (they will charge you for it). If you have a special snack food you can’t live without, you most definitely should bring some of that with you though remember to keep it light. We recommend getting lunches from the huts. Some of the huts cater to vegetarians (the normal dinner usually includes some meat). If you would like to go veggie, please tell us so we can make our request to the guardian.

Water bottle or Thermos - A pint Thermos is a nice luxury on a stormy day. For most folks, on cold days, one liter of fluid is enough for the trail, but when the weather is hot you may want a second liter. We believe in doing most of our hydrating in the huts, at the beginning and end of the day.

Head lamp - For a tour such as this we like to use a lightweight Petzl Tikka. These headlamps use the new LED technology that gets many hours of light from a single set of batteries. If you bring one of these lights one new set of batteries at the start will last the entire tour. Be careful it does not turn on inside your pack!

Pocket knife - Keep it simple and light. The Victorinox Spartan model is our favorite.

Repair kit - If your ski setup, boots or bindings require any particular odds and ends. Don’t bother bringing a Leatherman or complicated repair materials. We carry a repair kit as well. A small amount of duct tape (rolled onto a very short pencil is usually all that is needed). Nordic skiers with cable binding need to bring an extra cable and the tools necessary to change it.

Blister kit - Moleskin, athletic tape. Spenco Second Skin or Compeed is well worth the price.

Sun Glasses - With 100% UV protection. We like to bring sunglasses that permit us to switch from amber lenses (better for flat light) to darker lenses for sunny days. Cébé or Julbo both make good models.

Ski Goggles - For nasty weather.

Sunscreen - Look for as small a container as possible, or decant into a smaller container. There is no point in carrying a month’s worth of cream on a 7 day trip. We try to use sun screen of at least an SPF of 40.

Lip Protection -

Toiletries - Here again, try to minimize, for instance look for those small tubes of toothpaste, or simply don’t bring any toothpaste up to the huts. If you like bring 4 or 5 “handi-wipes” or similar.

Ear Plugs - For noisy huts.

Sleeping Sacks - Swiss Alpine Club huts now require users to have their own light sleeping sacks. Usually these are very light simple silk bags.

We have loaners you are welcome to use (we wash them after every trip). Or you can bring your own, or purchase one from the first hut.

Camera and film/memory - (optional, of course) It is very helpful to have a camera that can be hung around the neck, attached to the pack, or stuffed in a pocket so that it is handy, but doesn't’t interfere with your skiing. Please don’t carry your camera inside you pack. Getting it out every time you want pictures not only discourages taking them but also makes the whole group have to wait extra time for you.

Very small digital cameras are great, but you might want to consider bringing an extra battery and a large-capacity memory card.

Duffel - Small duffel for leaving gear in hotels, etc.

Passport, or photocopy - We prefer to leave our passports, plane tickets, etc. safely in the lowlands and carry only a photocopy on the tour. But some folks feel naked without it, and for them it is best to carry it.

Money - We usually use ATM cards to supply us with cash. Most hotels, shops and restaurants readily accept credit cards, though the huts typically do not. Bring about 40 Swiss francs per night for drinks and other treats in the huts. If you plan on buying lunch, throw a bit more in.

Maps - optional. We, of course, will carry the necessary maps, but if you are the sort of person who likes to learn as much as you can before visiting an area we recommend the following:

Guidebook ; The Haute Route, Chamonix - Zermatt, by Peter Cliff. Don’t bring the whole guide book. If you must bring some info, photocopy the appropriate pages and bring only them, though, you really don’t need any of it.

Maps : French IGN 1:25,000 Chamonix
Swiss 1:50,000 Martigny 282 (S) “S” indicates ski routes marked)
1:50,000 Arolla 283 (S)
1:50,000 Mischabel 284 (S)

Kathy Cosley & Mark Houston UIAGM Internationally Licensed Mountain Guides AMGA Certified • SNGM members information about the logos All images, layout and text ©2004 Cosley & Houston Alpine Guides, All Rights Reserved